Thinking about writing this review, I felt both a sense of excitment and a bit of stress. I've dined at Pastaria, a modern yet casual Italian restaurant in Clayton, many many times in my five years in St. Louis. It was the first restaurant I dined at in St. Louis shortly after moving here that I felt a sense of relief that there were indeed high quality restaurants in the Lou. Living in Chicago for over a decade had spoiled me and created a certain level of expectation. Pastaria has also become our family restaurant. You know the one, the restaurant where you've eaten a million times and yet everyone (kids and adults) is always happy and pleased to return. So the excitment was driven by my familiarity with the menu and depth of experience dining both in and through carry out, and the stress comes from a place of wanting to do one of the crown jewels of the St. Louis culinary scene justice.
Pastaria inhabits a large and airy space on Forsyth that includes both the main dining room as well as private dining and event space on the second floor. A large seated counter runs along the length of the back of the dining room that overlooks the open air kitchen and includes the real star of the restaurant, a wood-fired oven from which forth the spectacular pizzas, bread and roasted meats emerge. A small bar turns out a rotation of excellent seasonal cocktails, wine and beer. The high ceilings and concrete floors create a pleasant cacaphony of noise and energy that make this a really great place for dining with children. No one will hear your toddler having a meltdown over their spilled gelato!
The service is business like but pleasant, always attentive and quick with an additional spoon for that aforementioned gelato. The food is consistently excellent. I don't know that I've had a dish that's disapointed. My only major complaint with the menu is the herbed dipping sauce served with the crispy risotto balls, and that's only because I personally don't like tarragon. But do not worry, the marinara that also accompanies the appetizer does the trick. Two of the three salads are superb. It is rare that we venture away from the GOAT, the shaved kale (with the most perfectly balanced caesar dressing and crispy spray of breadcrumbs) but at times a ligher option is desired and the little gem fits the bill.
It's a toss up for me which is better, the pasta or pizzas. The pastas are hand made and so exquisitely delicious that you can order any of the noodles simply with butter, as my son does, and be very satisfied. Of cousre as delicious as plain butter noodles are, they are certainly not why you visit a restuarant like Pastaria. You come for the garganelli with braised beef, olives and gremolata or the bucatini all' amatriciana with a spicy tomato sauce. Or you could really go all in on what I consider to be an adult macaroni and cheese (mind you a mac and cheese for a sophisticated palate), the canestri cacio e pepe. This is not your classic cacio e pepe, it is more indulgent and heavy on the cheese but I have never heard anyone complain.
Pizzas are made and broken on the back of the dough. A simple margarita pizza is instantly elevated if the dough results in a crust that has the perfect chew. Add in a wood-fired oven and the marriage of fire, dough and high quality toppings has been known to inspire religious experiences. You too can experience pizza nirvana at Pastaria. My favorite pizza is no longer on the menu, but I regularly take comfort in the house made pepperoni or whatever the seasonal special of the day is. Late summer brought farmer's market corn and an inventive shishito pepper pesto.
The menu is rounded out with a few main dishes (the roast chicken with braised kale is a stand by for me) and roasted vegetables. Ordering the brussel sprouts in 2021 is the purest definition of basic there is, but you will not be disappointed. Desserts are updated frequently as well but we typically are very happy to choose our desired flavor of gelato. You can walk up to the glass gelato case and have your selection scooped right in front of you. This is always a hit with kids and something to be held over young heads through dinner if you need a bribe to keep siblings from kicking each other under the table. This last outing we broke tradition and ordered the birthday cake from the dessert menu. It was two layers of funfetti cake and butter cream frosting a funfetti cookie crumble topping. My friend and I could not compel ourselves to stop eating it, though extremely full, until the very last bite was gone.
Pastaria has started to accept reservations, a result of covid-related crowd control, and has a great kids dinner deal that includes a main dish, drink and gelato. Pastaria works as a dinner date spot for two, or a convivial group dinner setting with family or friends. A place that can be both a place for a celebratory meal and a regular family dinner spot is special and one that should be in everyone's rotation.
Pastaria receives a 1 for service, 1 for ambiance and 2 for food for a total rating of 4.
